Product Guide: Automatic Signal for LEGO® Trains
INTRODUCTION
This guide describes how to build and use the Brickstuff signal and controller box for LEGO® trains. The guide covers both the all-inclusive Automatic Signal QuicKit for LEGO Trains as well as the Automatic Train Signal Controller-Only kit. Both kits include the following:
- Custom-designed train signal controller board with multiple functions.
- Infrared train sensor with built-in light filtering technology.
- Adhesive dots to attach the sensor to the bottom of any straight section of LEGO® train track.
- Genuine LEGO® pieces to build a trackside box for the signal controller.
The all-inclusive QuicKit also provides:
- 3xAAA battery pack to power the train signal and controller board (batteries not included).
- Two Pico LED lights for the train signal.
- Genuine LEGO® pieces to build a 2- or 3-aspect train signal (building a 3-aspect signal requires one additional Pico LED light, sold separately).
ASSEMBLING THE TRAIN SIGNAL
If you purchased the controller-only kit, you can skip to the next section to assemble your controller box.
The LEGO® pieces needed to assemble your train signal are included in a clear plastic bag. You should also have two Pico LED lights in a pink plastic bag. The photo below shows the pieces and lights needed to assemble the signal:
The steps below assume you are building a 2-aspect train signal (red/green). Your kit includes the LEGO® parts to build a 3-aspect signal (red/yellow/green) as well, though you will need an additional Pico LED light (not included with kit) for a 3-aspect signal.
After you have assembled your train signal, you can assemble the controller box (see the next section). You can decide to mount the signal on top of the controller box or close to it.
If you would like to build a 3-aspect train signal using one additional Pico LED light (not included with kit), repeat steps 6-7 above to add a third light on top of the signal, then run the wires for your third Pico LED light as shown in step 8 and run the wire for the third light the same way as with the other two lights. In this case, you will have LED light wires with three different lengths: the longest wire will be for the green light, the shortest wire will be for the red light, and the middle-length wire will be for the yellow light.
ASSEMBLING THE CONTROLLER BOX
The LEGO® pieces needed to assemble your train signal controller box are included in a clear plastic bag. You should also have the main controller circuit board and the infrared train sensor in a pink plastic bag. The photo below shows the parts needed to assemble the signal controller:
The steps below show how to assemble the controller box and where to connect the train sensor, signal lights, and power source.
The assembly steps show how to build the signal controller box so it can attach directly to a piece of LEGO® straight track, but you can modify the assembly if needed to allow mounting the controller box without connecting it to a section of track.
In step 2, the 2x4 LEGO® plate is positioned with two studs sticking out-- this is to allow attaching the controller box directly to a section of track. If you want to mount your signal controller box without connecting it to a section of track, you can rotate the 2x4 plate 90 degrees and not use the top 2x2 plate. This removes the two studs sticking out the side of the controller box.
The signal controller circuit board should fit into the inside of the housing. Make sure to position the board as shown in the next step, with the three plugs for the signal LED lights facing the "top" of the housing.
The step above shows the signal box with a 2x2 tile on top. This is the configuration to use if you will not be mounting your signal directly on top of the signal controller box. The steps below show this 2x2 tile removed, and assume you will be attaching your signal directly to the signal box-- you can decide how you want to mount your signal.
The steps below show how to mount the train detection sensor under the section of LEGO® track.
The photos below show how the sensor should look after attaching it to the track.
When mounted correctly, the sensor should not stick up above the two 1x6 tiles that hold it in place. This is important so trains don't get caught on the sensor.
As an alternate way to mount the train sensor, you can attach it directly to the side of the train signal as shown in the photo below.
If attaching the sensor to the side of the signal, make sure to attach it at the bottom of the signal so it aligns with the path of passing trains. Otherwise the sensor may not be accurately triggered. The operating distance for the sensor is between 2mm (approximately 1/16in) and 22mm (approximately 7/8in).
If you are making your own custom signal design, you can also mount the sensor above the track, on the underside of the signal, as shown by the red circle in the photo below.
If attaching the sensor to the side or bottom of a signal, test the clearance with all of your trains to make sure the sensor is positioned far enough away from passing trains so it does not get caught, but close enough so the signal is still activated when a train passes.
To get your ideas flowing for alternative signal design ideas, we've attached two files to this article, both in the Bricklink Studio format:
- SIngle-track train signal bridge
- Double-track train signal bridge
If either of these designs interest you, you can use the Wanted List feature of the Studio software to order the parts via Bricklink.
CONNECTING LIGHTS, SENSOR, and POWER
The build for the signal controller box has bricks with Technic holes on both ends. This allows easy feeding for the wires needed to connect the signal lights, train sensor, and power.
The controller circuit board has top-facing connecting plug sockets that are very fragile. Plugs will only insert in one direction (with the bottom or wire-side of the plug facing toward the center of the circuit board). Press the plugs in with your fingernail-- you will feel a soft "click" when the plugs are inserted fully.
When connecting plugs to these sockets, make sure to insert them pressing straight down, and not to an angle. Inserting and pressing at an angle can crack the plug sockets.
The diagram below shows the main connecting plugs on the controller circuit board:
When connecting the lights for the signal, remember that the longest wire should be for the green aspect light, the shortest wire should be for the red light, and the middle-length wire (if using a 3-aspect signal) should be for the yellow aspect light.
If the lights appear out of order when you connect power to the signal, you can always switch the light plugs around.
There are several other plugs on the controller circuit board which aren't used in a basic setup:
- OUT: This plug is used for expansion or when connecting lights in a custom-designed signal using Brickstuff BrickPixel components. See the EXPANSION section, below, for more details about how this output can be used.
- RELAY: This is reserved for future use. One add-on we are considering making is a relay board that would turn track power "off" to a designated section of LEGO® 9V or 12V track when the signal was red. If you would have a use for this, please contact us.
You can power the train signal controller board using any Brickstuff Power Pack as well as a power source from any 3rd party lighting vendor that uses the same 0.8mm Pico connecting plug as our power packs. The circuit board operates at 5 volts DC.
CONFIGURATION
The signal controller has several operating modes, and the blue LED light on the board will flash when power is turned on to indicate which operating mode is active. These modes and their corresponding number of flashes are:
- One LED flash [DEFAULT]: 2-aspect signal with individual LED lights (red/green)
- Two LED flashes: 3-aspect signal with individual LED lights (red/yellow/green)
- Three LED flashes: 2-aspect signal with single color-changing LED lights (reserved for a future signal type)
- Four LED flashes: 3-aspect signal with single color-changing LED lights (reserved for a future signal type)
When you first power up your signal controller, the onboard LED light should flash once to indicate the factory default setting of a 2-aspect signal with individual LED lights. If your LED flashes a different number of times, you can do a "short press" (less than 1 second) of the "Setting Button" on the circuit board (see diagram above) to change modes until you reach the mode that matches the configuration of your signal.
Regardless of the operating mode of the signal, you can set the delay time after a train finishes passing over/under the train sensor. You can select from 10, 20, or 30 seconds for this delay time. Your signal ships from the factory with a delay time of 10 seconds by default.
The delay timer starts once a train has cleared the sensor completely.
If you have a small layout where trains cross the signal frequently, you can set the delay time to 10 seconds so the signal is always back to green by the time the train comes again. For larger layouts, you can set the timer to 20 or 30 seconds to have the signal remain in the "occupied block" state for longer.
To change the delay timer setting, do a "long press" (1-2 seconds) of the "Setting Button" on the controller circuit board. The LED light on the circuit board will flash 1-3 times rapidly to indicate the delay setting (1 flash = 10 seconds, 2 flashes = 20 seconds, and 3 flashes = 30 seconds).
The signal mode and delay timer settings are stored in the controller's memory even when power is turned off.
Once you have picked your settings and connected the sensor, your LED lights, and power, your train signal should be ready for use. You can test the signal by passing your hand closely over the sensor.
When the sensor is triggered by a close object (your hand, or a passing train), the blue LED light on the controller circuit board) will turn on as a visual indicator. When the sensor is "clear," the blue LED light will turn off. This can also help when testing different locations or positions for the sensor.
EXPANSION
Using the "OUT" plug on the signal controller and the assortment of Brickstuff BrickPixel expansion accessories, you can connect additional LED lights to use in custom-designed signals or in signals that are farther away from the controller board than the LED light wires will reach directly.
The controller supports up to 12 additional LED lights, or four additional 3-aspect signals. All connected signals are controlled together as a unit (i.e., all connected signals are "red" at the same time).
Depending on your setup, you can use one 12-port BrickPixel Driver Board (BRANCH12X) or one or two 6-port BrickPixel Driver Boards (BRANCH06X) connected with BrickPixel connecting cables (we sell these in 5cm, 30cm, and 50cm lengths in packs of four).
The diagram below shows how the BrickPixel Driver Boards can be connected to the signal controller:
Using these expansion options, you can create your own train signals of any design and use any LED lights to connect to the expansion Driver Boards.
It is ok to leave any light plugs empty-- again, the controller sets all connected signal lights in the same groups whether a light is connected to every output or not.
THANK YOU
Thank you for purchasing this Brickstuff product! Your support means a lot to our small, family business, and it allows us to wake up every day and continue doing the work we love: making really cool things to take your models to the next level!
If you have any questions or problems with this product, please send us an e-mail and let us know how we can help. You can also comment directly about this guide below.
If you make something really cool with this product, please share on social media and tag us (@brickstuff on most platforms) so we can see your awesome work!
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